I'm going to take a brief break today
from my walking tour of Singaraja and journey back to Pakistan where
I spent four intense, memorable and rewarding years. One of my
teaching responsibilities during the first two years of my teaching in Lahore was a high school
anthropology class. Those two years were the only time that I taught
an anthropology class to students below university level, so it was a
bit of a challenge. But, I had the opportunity to take two of my
classes outside the school for field trips around Pakistan. The first
trip included a visit to an old fort in the town of Sheikhupura which
is jus 35 miles northwest of Lahore.
The city origins date back to 100 BC.
Sheikhupura takes its name from the nickname for the Mughal Emperor
Jahangir. Alexander the Great supposedly fought a battle here. The
city was a focal point for struggles between Muslims and Sikhs for
control of the area. The Sikhs eventually won out and held the city
until they were defeated by the British sometime around 1850.
Sheikhupura became part of Pakistan after Partition. Until then, the
city was a mix of Hindu, Muslim and Sikh residents.
It seems uncertain exactly when
Sheikhupura Fort was constructed. One argument is that it was built
in 1619 for use as a hunting lodge. It is generally accepted that the
fort was built by Emperor Jahangir sometime after 1607 and was used
as a camp for the Emperor when he was in the area, usually for
hunting. Later the fort was used as a home for the Sikh Princess Rani
Nikayan; this accounts for many of the lovely frescoes still in
existence (although some have been defaced by vandals) of dancing
girls, court scenes, wildlife and images of Guru Nanak. The Asian
Historical Architecture has an excellent section on Sheikhupura
Fort including interior maps and 90 photos. I love this site because
I lost most of the photos that I took during our field trip.
According to a news
report from 2010, the United States was contributing $850,000 to
the cost of renovating the fort. I was looking for some more recent
information on the renovation project, but I haven't been able to
find any. This is one of the many places that I would enjoy visiting
should I be fortunate enough to return to Pakistan one day.
1 comment:
I am from Sheikhupura. The fort is indeed very beautiful and historic. When I was in Pakistan in the summer of 2012, I wanted to see the fort from the inside, but they didn't let me. I was very disappointed. I've heard that $1 million was given to fix up the fort 3 years ago, and nothing has changed since then. It is still damaged, and it's breaking apart. They seriously need to start working on this beautiful piece of art before it completely tears down. It makes me feel very vexed that they have not! They obviously didn't use that money for the fort. May God perish the buffoons that are running Pakistan.
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