The End of Ramadan
Well, the long month of Ramadan officially ended here in Indonesia tonight, much to my (and many others’ relief). The first and last weeks are always the hardest for me. The first week is difficult because I need to get in the rhythm of waking and eating and then sleeping and waking and then sleeping and waking again. All this because of the kids’ school schedules. Indonesia is a multi-cultural, multi-religious nation, but depending on where you live, customs and school schedules can be quite different.
When we lived in Sumbawa which is almost completely Muslim, the kids were given most of the month of Ramadan off for vacation. Here in Bali where most of the population is Hindu, the kids get a couple of days off for Ramadan while their main vacations are planned around the major Hindu religious holidays. And with four children in three different schools, schedules vary from day to day. One child has PE on Tuesdays and needs to get up at 5 AM, another two have PE on Wednesdays and needs to get up early that day, but the other two can sleep until 5:30, and the last has her PE day on Thursdays. Anyway, I think you get the point.
So tonight is Takbiran (the last night of the fasting month) and everyone in the kampung is driving around in vehicles celebrating. I’m on the third floor, as usual, writing. No getting up at 3:15 tomorrow morning. A relief.
The point, though, as I have mentioned before is to control our desires and needs and to remember the less fortunate. In this small kampung where so many exist on a subsistence level, it is impossible to forget the less fortunate. All I need to do is look next door where my neighbor still has half of his roof missing from the storms last January because he doesn’t have the money to replace the tiles. Or a glance at the neighbor to the west, who has a house with the thinnest plywood serving as the walls for his dwelling. The old Christian saying often goes through my mind, there but for the grace of God…
Controlling the desires and needs is something else. That is a lot more difficult. I am a smoker – I’ve quit many times only to begin again once I hit a period of stress. For me, Ramadan is a powerful reminder that I can control those needs and desires if only I have the resolve. Unfortunately, outside of Ramadan, the pleasures of smoking outweigh just about everything else.
Tomorrow morning is the day of community prayers that take place here in Singaraja in the large field just down the street from the police headquarters. Tomorrow, I’ll finish up the month of blogs and videos on Ramadan
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Ten Points of (semi) Randomness in Bali
1. I’ve uploaded two videos to YouTube after watching an interesting video done by an American anthropologist and his students who are doing participant observation on virtual communities. I’m watching to see what happens there.
2. The YouTube videos are, as I’ve said on the videos, another medium to work with in writing about life over here. It’s nice to get beyond written language for a while.
3. Now that my children have access to the internet, it’s fascinating to see how quickly they have adapted it to their personal interests. My second daughter is on to the social network scene; my second son uses it to search for science information. Two points to back up my long held belief that if children want to learn, they will figure out ways to do it by themselves if there is no one there to interfere with them. There’s an interesting TED talk about this which I will be reviewing in a few days.
4. It’s gotten hot here in Singaraja. I forgot about how hot it can actually be here, as June, July and August are nice and cool here on the coast.
5. I love the freedom that retirement has given me to do things when I want to do them.
6. I miss teaching and doing something that I’m fairly good at.
7. Politeness is a trait that isn’t given enough value these days. I’m amazed at how rude people can be on the internet. What happened to civility? One of the things that I love to hear from folks that visit here is how polite my children are.
8. Why do people build houses with pools when they have a house on the ocean? It seems to be one of the negative things that Westerners bring here. Quite anti-social. Swimming in the ocean with the neighbors is a great way to develop social interaction.
9. Why do foreigners want to come here and live in these foreigner only gated communities? What’s the point of living in Bali if you’re not involved in the Balinese community?
10. What do old men see in really young women? OK, beyond the obvious? And please, for the sake of the rest of us, don’t wander around the supermarket groping each other.
2. The YouTube videos are, as I’ve said on the videos, another medium to work with in writing about life over here. It’s nice to get beyond written language for a while.
3. Now that my children have access to the internet, it’s fascinating to see how quickly they have adapted it to their personal interests. My second daughter is on to the social network scene; my second son uses it to search for science information. Two points to back up my long held belief that if children want to learn, they will figure out ways to do it by themselves if there is no one there to interfere with them. There’s an interesting TED talk about this which I will be reviewing in a few days.
4. It’s gotten hot here in Singaraja. I forgot about how hot it can actually be here, as June, July and August are nice and cool here on the coast.
5. I love the freedom that retirement has given me to do things when I want to do them.
6. I miss teaching and doing something that I’m fairly good at.
7. Politeness is a trait that isn’t given enough value these days. I’m amazed at how rude people can be on the internet. What happened to civility? One of the things that I love to hear from folks that visit here is how polite my children are.
8. Why do people build houses with pools when they have a house on the ocean? It seems to be one of the negative things that Westerners bring here. Quite anti-social. Swimming in the ocean with the neighbors is a great way to develop social interaction.
9. Why do foreigners want to come here and live in these foreigner only gated communities? What’s the point of living in Bali if you’re not involved in the Balinese community?
10. What do old men see in really young women? OK, beyond the obvious? And please, for the sake of the rest of us, don’t wander around the supermarket groping each other.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Life in Bali – Why do I Stay in Bali?
Life in Bali isn’t all that you would want; for some people it’s more, and for others it’s a string of one disappointment after another. The last post explained why I came here. Why do I stay in Bali?
Once, years ago during my first attempt at retirement, I fell into just what I said that I wouldn’t – hanging out with expats, most of whom had one story of disappointment or another: older men with younger wives who found that their true love had a Balinese guy on the side, older women with younger men who found out the same thing, entrepreneurs who wanted to open the latest nightlife spot, guys who wanted to trade stocks on the internet for a living, the occasional lowlife who preyed on anyone who might come up with a buck or two. Why did I do this? Well, it tends to be our nature to want, at some point, to hang out with those who are like us.
Hmmm. What does that mean? We want to speak English or French or Spanish, we want someone who can connect with our stories, we want someone who understands our references and jokes and little pleasures and pains.
Moving between two cultures, as I had for many years, I wasn’t prepared (although I was sure that I was both by training and inclination) to live completely inside an Indonesian culture. “Going native” was how anthropologists used to put it, sniffing a bit and looking down their noses at the anthropologist who fell prey to the temptations of living locally on a full time basis. I was sure that I would never do this.
So, like so many others before me, I began hanging out with the local expat crowd. Of course, that included drinks before noon, a few mindless beach games, and a lot of gossip about whomever wasn’t at the bar or restaurant where we happened to meet that day.
I lasted all of six months before I crashed and burned and was looking for any way out of Bali. I found it when a job offer came out of the blue. It took me nine more years of wandering around the world before I was ready to get back to it.
The Balinese have this wonderful philosophy that centers on balance. I needed a little of that in my life which has moved wildly from one extreme to another.
So I wake up in the morning; the sunrise comes through my east windows and wakes me on those mornings when I’m not up before sunrise to wake my children and prepare them for another school day. On school days, I’m up at 5:30 when there is only a glimmer of purple on the eastern horizon. I climb down the steep stairs from the third floor to wake the children who are sleeping on the second floor; then I continue on to the first floor to wake the other children who are sleeping on the first floor.
As they queue up at the bathrooms for their morning ablutions, I gaze out at the sun slowing climbing up through the eastern sky – just a little glint of red now mixed in with the purple. The sounds of water running and mandiing being done.
My wife and I put out bowls of cereal, glasses of juice, plates of toasts for the children to choose from for breakfast. Like a lot of children around the world, there is always at least one who rises late, and still full from a late night snack sneaked from the refrigerator, doesn’t want breakfast. She can buy something to eat at one of the small warungs outside the school grounds.
My wife and I split the children up and drive them to school on our motorbikes. As I leave the kampung (neighborhood), I nod to the traffic cop on the corner. We weave our way through the Singaraja morning traffic as my daughter calls out to classmates, “Aku duluang.”
I return home and check email, then sweep and dust and mop the third floor while my wife makes breakfast for the two of us. We eat together and discuss what we have planned for the day. It’s rarely the same plan; she has her routines located in a lifetime of living in this small, poor neighborhood in North Bali, I have mine based on the internet and my writing. At some point in the day though, we manage to do something together despite our different schedules.
The children return home hot and sweaty and hungry. They’re fed by my wife while I ask about homework and how school went. The Mom and the Teacher- we’ve lived these roles for so long that they fit like a comfortable skin that we wear on top of our core selves.
In the afternoon, everyone naps at some point. It’s a lovely point of living in the tropics for those of us who aren’t constrained by the rigors of everyday work. Later as the sun goes down, we all meet again for dinner and a little talk about the day. As we finish the dinner dishes, kids wander off to visit friends or finish up homework. I climb the stairs one more time to do some evening writing, my wife moves outside to chat with friends.
Why do I stay in Bali?
Once, years ago during my first attempt at retirement, I fell into just what I said that I wouldn’t – hanging out with expats, most of whom had one story of disappointment or another: older men with younger wives who found that their true love had a Balinese guy on the side, older women with younger men who found out the same thing, entrepreneurs who wanted to open the latest nightlife spot, guys who wanted to trade stocks on the internet for a living, the occasional lowlife who preyed on anyone who might come up with a buck or two. Why did I do this? Well, it tends to be our nature to want, at some point, to hang out with those who are like us.
Hmmm. What does that mean? We want to speak English or French or Spanish, we want someone who can connect with our stories, we want someone who understands our references and jokes and little pleasures and pains.
Moving between two cultures, as I had for many years, I wasn’t prepared (although I was sure that I was both by training and inclination) to live completely inside an Indonesian culture. “Going native” was how anthropologists used to put it, sniffing a bit and looking down their noses at the anthropologist who fell prey to the temptations of living locally on a full time basis. I was sure that I would never do this.
So, like so many others before me, I began hanging out with the local expat crowd. Of course, that included drinks before noon, a few mindless beach games, and a lot of gossip about whomever wasn’t at the bar or restaurant where we happened to meet that day.
I lasted all of six months before I crashed and burned and was looking for any way out of Bali. I found it when a job offer came out of the blue. It took me nine more years of wandering around the world before I was ready to get back to it.
The Balinese have this wonderful philosophy that centers on balance. I needed a little of that in my life which has moved wildly from one extreme to another.
So I wake up in the morning; the sunrise comes through my east windows and wakes me on those mornings when I’m not up before sunrise to wake my children and prepare them for another school day. On school days, I’m up at 5:30 when there is only a glimmer of purple on the eastern horizon. I climb down the steep stairs from the third floor to wake the children who are sleeping on the second floor; then I continue on to the first floor to wake the other children who are sleeping on the first floor.
As they queue up at the bathrooms for their morning ablutions, I gaze out at the sun slowing climbing up through the eastern sky – just a little glint of red now mixed in with the purple. The sounds of water running and mandiing being done.
My wife and I put out bowls of cereal, glasses of juice, plates of toasts for the children to choose from for breakfast. Like a lot of children around the world, there is always at least one who rises late, and still full from a late night snack sneaked from the refrigerator, doesn’t want breakfast. She can buy something to eat at one of the small warungs outside the school grounds.
My wife and I split the children up and drive them to school on our motorbikes. As I leave the kampung (neighborhood), I nod to the traffic cop on the corner. We weave our way through the Singaraja morning traffic as my daughter calls out to classmates, “Aku duluang.”
I return home and check email, then sweep and dust and mop the third floor while my wife makes breakfast for the two of us. We eat together and discuss what we have planned for the day. It’s rarely the same plan; she has her routines located in a lifetime of living in this small, poor neighborhood in North Bali, I have mine based on the internet and my writing. At some point in the day though, we manage to do something together despite our different schedules.
The children return home hot and sweaty and hungry. They’re fed by my wife while I ask about homework and how school went. The Mom and the Teacher- we’ve lived these roles for so long that they fit like a comfortable skin that we wear on top of our core selves.
In the afternoon, everyone naps at some point. It’s a lovely point of living in the tropics for those of us who aren’t constrained by the rigors of everyday work. Later as the sun goes down, we all meet again for dinner and a little talk about the day. As we finish the dinner dishes, kids wander off to visit friends or finish up homework. I climb the stairs one more time to do some evening writing, my wife moves outside to chat with friends.
Why do I stay in Bali?
Saturday, September 06, 2008
How Did I End Up in Bali?
I recently celebrated the 19th anniversary of my move to Indonesia. I always tend to do a little reflection as the years pass, and I continue to be amazed that I am still here after 19 years. An old friend whom I haven’t talked to in close to 40 years got in touch with me the other day, and the big question was how did I end up in Bali? How indeed.. I’ve just finished my first ebook, and despite what I once said about never writing a book about Bali, I ended up doing just that.
How did I get here, and why did I stay?
I came to Bali on my first vacation when I was teaching in Papua, then called Irian Jaya. Bali was relatively close, the island had anthropological connections for me because of Mead and Bateson and Geertz, and I was just looking for some place to have a peaceful vacation and recharge after my first four months of working overseas. I actually didn’t plan on staying in Bali for the whole vacation, I was planning a few weeks here and then a week in Thailand and a few days in Jakarta.
Like many tourists, I ended up in Kuta as my point of entry. Why Kuta? It was close to the airport, and it seemed to be the place where there were a lot of things for a single guy to do. The Merpati plane from Timika landed just as the sun was setting. I wandered around outside the small domestic terminal until I found a taxi and made my way to Bakungsari Cottages in Kuta which is the first place that I stayed in Bali. After a week of wandering around Denpasar, Kuta, and Legian, I made my way up north via bus.
I boarded the wrong bus and ended up going up north on a beautiful road through Pupan, rather than through the middle of the island through Bedugal like I had planned. By the time that I figured out where I was, I was almost out of the Lovina strip. I jumped off the bus just down the road from the Bali Taman in Anturan. I ended up moving a few days later to a small homestay in Kalibukbuk for the grand price of $2 a day. After a week in Kalibukbuk and Anturan, I cancelled my plans for Thailand and Jakarta. I spent the rest of my time in the north of Bali hanging out with my new Balinese friends.
From there, I was just taken, like so many are for some reason that is actually quite hard to explain completely rationally, with Bali and knew that I wanted to live there on a full-time basis at some point in my life.
The rest of the story follows fairly quickly from there; I built my first house, met the woman whom I married a year later, built another house, started having children, built another house, changed jobs a few times, moved to another island, built another two houses, retired and moved the family back here. That sums up as neatly as possible the past 19 years.
Why am I still here? That’s a good question. Just today one of my correspondents said, “oh, you’re still in Bali, you must really love it.”
I replied, “Yes, I do,” But as I think about this reply. I keep wondering why.
Find out what my answer is in the next post.
How did I get here, and why did I stay?
I came to Bali on my first vacation when I was teaching in Papua, then called Irian Jaya. Bali was relatively close, the island had anthropological connections for me because of Mead and Bateson and Geertz, and I was just looking for some place to have a peaceful vacation and recharge after my first four months of working overseas. I actually didn’t plan on staying in Bali for the whole vacation, I was planning a few weeks here and then a week in Thailand and a few days in Jakarta.
Like many tourists, I ended up in Kuta as my point of entry. Why Kuta? It was close to the airport, and it seemed to be the place where there were a lot of things for a single guy to do. The Merpati plane from Timika landed just as the sun was setting. I wandered around outside the small domestic terminal until I found a taxi and made my way to Bakungsari Cottages in Kuta which is the first place that I stayed in Bali. After a week of wandering around Denpasar, Kuta, and Legian, I made my way up north via bus.
I boarded the wrong bus and ended up going up north on a beautiful road through Pupan, rather than through the middle of the island through Bedugal like I had planned. By the time that I figured out where I was, I was almost out of the Lovina strip. I jumped off the bus just down the road from the Bali Taman in Anturan. I ended up moving a few days later to a small homestay in Kalibukbuk for the grand price of $2 a day. After a week in Kalibukbuk and Anturan, I cancelled my plans for Thailand and Jakarta. I spent the rest of my time in the north of Bali hanging out with my new Balinese friends.
From there, I was just taken, like so many are for some reason that is actually quite hard to explain completely rationally, with Bali and knew that I wanted to live there on a full-time basis at some point in my life.
The rest of the story follows fairly quickly from there; I built my first house, met the woman whom I married a year later, built another house, started having children, built another house, changed jobs a few times, moved to another island, built another two houses, retired and moved the family back here. That sums up as neatly as possible the past 19 years.
Why am I still here? That’s a good question. Just today one of my correspondents said, “oh, you’re still in Bali, you must really love it.”
I replied, “Yes, I do,” But as I think about this reply. I keep wondering why.
Find out what my answer is in the next post.
Monday, August 25, 2008
The Practicalities of Moving to Bali: A Primer for Life in the Tropics
The tropics. Paradise. Exotic. Asian women. Surfer boys.
Love in the tropics. Retiring in Asia. Mai Tais. Bali. What great images!
These words are some of the top search terms that people have used
on the way to accessing my writings, websites, blogs, magazine articles
and podcasts about life in Indonesia, Bali, Sumbawa, and Papua. Over
the past 19 years of writing about life in Bali, I’ve received thousands
of emails asking me about the practicalities of moving here. Some of
the letters have been quite specific like, “Can I bring my dogs to
Bali?” Some have been general like, “I’d like to move to Bali, please
tell me how to go about it.” Some have been vague like, “What’s paradise
like? I’m moving there.”
I’ve tried to answer all of these questions and queries,
but just as I answer one group of letters another group arrives with pretty
much the same questions. It’s this situation that’s led me to write this
eBook about life in Bali.
Why write an eBook about this?
There is an incredible amount of information floating
around both in print and on the Internet about living in Indonesia, but it’s
generally fragmented, and a lot of it is out of date. A popular website about
living in Indonesia has information from 2004. Things change quickly in Indonesia
these days, and if you’re planning on moving to Bali, it’s best to have the
most recent information available. I’ve chosen the ebook format, because
it allows me to collect everything in one place, and to publish it while
the information is still fresh.
Try using a paperback guidebook. They have a lot of uses:
they contain a lot of information about culture and background and
prices for hotels and transport and food; they give you medical information
and photos; you can carry them in your backpack. But, the main problem
with the traditional travel guidebook is that they age quickly, and
the information is written for tourists, not for potential residents.
I’ve had a home in Bali since 1989 and have lived on several
other islands in addition to Bali. During this time, I’ve built five
houses, had four children, and taught in three schools around the country.
The information in this book is based on my experiences over almost
two decades of living and working in Indonesia. In 128 pages, I cover
the basics of what life is like in Bali on a daily basis – health,
communication, finances, culture, visa regulations, the legalities of
purchasing property, education, shopping, love and marriage, and much
more. You will find:
* Chapter 1: Moving to Asia: Why Leave Home?
* Chapter 2: Living in Bali: The Practicalities
* Chapter 3: Romance in the Tropics
* Chapter 4: Children and Schools
* Chapter 5: Housing
* Chapter 6: Property Issues
* Chapter 7: Visas
* Chapter 8: Bali: The Regions
* Chapter 9: Balinese Culture
* Chapter 10: Employment
* Chapter 11: Bali Resources
I’m continually amazed by the number of people that show
up in Bali and expect to live a life of ease in paradise all based
on one or two tourist trips. Daily life in Bali is far different from
the tourist experience: a lot better in many ways, but also hectic
and trying in others. If you are planning on moving to Bali, or thinking
about moving to Bali, you can buy this book for just $15.00 and find
out what’s in store for you before you move to Bali.
Once you read this book, you will be ready for the
big move to Bali. I thank you for the patronage. Click here to get
a free sample chapter.
Here's what a reader has said about this book:
"Bruce Pohlman's e-book has already been a godsend to my wife Elsha and me. He writes in an inviting and colorful way. He covers the GENERAL: culture shock, the wonders and risks of living overseas, to the SPECIFIC - costs of living, housing, medical issues, visas, employment. He even includes much PERSONAL info: what expats are like, why he left a job in San Francisco and ended up in Bali, personal and family relationships. And much more; anything you might want to know is in his e-book, with links to helpful websites throughout. We've used it to guide us countless times; it's like having a trusted uncle who's an expert.This book should become a classic about Bali."
The Practicalities of Moving to Bali
$15.00
If you wish to purchase a copy, click here
Sunday, August 24, 2008
A Return to Blogspot
Well, it seems that, despite the fact that I haven't posted here in quite some time due to not being able to use blogger from school when I was working there, there is still traffic coming in here. So, I will be posting here as well as to my other blogs. Look for something new tomorrow.
Thursday, November 08, 2007
Monday, October 29, 2007
Moving
The company that controls my life to a greater extent than I'd like to admit to has blocked all blogspot address so I will be moving to drbrucepk.wordpress.com for the time being. We'll see what happens in the future.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Migrations
It’s late October and we are at the end of the dry season. Next month should bring the start of the rains – I hope so anyway. My family is due to return home tomorrow. My eldest daughter has asked them to stay in Bali for a few more days. She’s grown up in an Indonesian culture and before she moved back to our house in Bali to attend high school there, she had never slept alone and was very much the homebody. Now she’s living basically alone, and it hasn’t been the easiest thing for her, but she’s done a good job so far.
I’ve been receiving a lot of emails recently (generally I receive quite a few, but over the last few months, I’ve received even more than usual) from people wanting to move to Bali either to retire or start a business. A lot of the traffic comes from some articles that I wrote several years ago; the minority comes from my blog or the cyberbali.com website. I certainly don’t mind responding to most (I don’t respond to the ones that give a few questions with no other text, such as “how much does it cost to live in Bali,” or “How do I get a job in Bali”). Fairly rude as I see it. I do respond to the emails that start out with a hello, or a I really liked your article. I’m even more inclined to respond if they give some background information like, “I’ve vacationed in Bali six times in the last…years”
But besides the response issue, there’s this nagging question about why so many people want to move to Bali. I’ve forgotten the stats on the number of legal resident foreigners in Bali, but it was fairly significant for such a small island. (Then there’s a whole other world of illegal resident foreigners – the idiots who don’t bother to keep their visas current or abide by the national laws on immigration and residency.) Maybe I should be put up a poll on my website about immigrating to Bali.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Animals
How many animals can you have? We have ducks, chickens, geese, birds, goats, dogs. I turned down an offer of buying baby sea turtles yesterday because they’re protected. It was one of those decisions of whether you buy them to protect them or not buy them to discourage people from selling them. I went with the not buying them.
A few years ago when I spent a lot of time swimming in the ocean here, I came across one territorial sea turtle who seemed to always be in the exact place on the beach where I wanted to swim. I’m someone who has a thing about sharks (think 10 years of living in northern California where you regularly get Great Whites who like to take chunks out of surfers), and I would think the turtle was a shark. Eventually we got used to each other, and (s)he would let me get within a fairly close distance and then swim away. It was one of those beautiful things about living out here in the “jungle” that you rarely get elsewhere.
I’m not sure how I’m going to get used to not having animals around when I retire to the house in Bali next year. The house is relatively small (compared to this one) and we have no extra land like we do here, and our neighbors in Bali are of the Muslim variety that think that dogs are haram. Dogs here aren’t haram; dogs in Pakistan aren’t haram – check out President Musharraf and his dogs.
One lovely story from the vacation in Bali. One of our neighbors is an excellent fisherman. He was out getting his boat ready to go out the next day and he saw a fin moving up close. He took it to be a shark at first glance and was about to spear it. Then he realized that it was a baby dolphin. He took the little guy up and put it in his boat and dropped it off 500 meters from shore because most fisherman in Bali won’t kill a dolphin. Why? Some interesting stories of dolphins saving guys who have been washed off their boats and have been saved by dolphins dragging them to shore.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Another Ramadan and the Joys of Life in the Tropics
The month of fasting for Muslims is over; today is Lebaran. It’s a day of celebration and visiting neighbors and eating sweets and various Indonesian delicacies. Women will spend weeks baking for today – my wife does – so that by Lebaran they have plenty of goodies to offer neighbors who come visiting. This is also a day of asking for forgiveness for any wrongs done intentionally or unintentionally to neighbors, family and friends.
My family is in Bali for Lebaran; I came back last week to begin work again. I could have tried to get home (the Bali home) to be with the family, but I’m bogged down with work and also don’t want to compete for space on transport with the hordes of folks on the move across the country at this time of the year. So I’m at home doing school work and trying to get started on some repairs to the house.
I woke up this morning put on the baseball game between the Red Sox and the Indians, fed the animals here, and made my first real breakfast in a month. Our puppy who grew quickly while I was in Bali has an enormous appetite; our oldest dog eats rather sparingly as he’s a finicky eater – he’s used to being spoiled by my wife with different food everyday. He’s been eating chicken for three weeks now and is bored so only eats when he’s starved. I had a large cup of Bali coffee for the first time in a month, and now, four hours later, I’m still buzzed by my first caffeine fix in a month.
I love (generally) having houses on two different islands. I call both home, but ultimately the house in Bali will be “home” because that is where my wife is from and the place the children consider to be home. So, as I’ve said before, we’re planning on selling or renting this house in Sumbawa. But, just as we are getting ready for that process – we were hit by an intense earthquake about ten days ago. The epicenter was apparently only about forty miles north of here, and the house suffered a few large cracks in a few walls which we are repairing – structurally the house is sound, but from reports from friends here the house swayed and thus we had some damage to the front end of the house. My gardener and I found the cracks in the wall and began repairing them, but we didn’t think about the roofing tiles.
Last night we had the first big rain which hopefully signaled the end of the dry season. The problem is that some of the roofing tiles in the front of the house shifted position and during the rain the roof in the front bedroom let in a torrent of water. Fortunately it missed the bed, but did get the electrical equipment that I had spread out on the floor where I charge batteries for my various cameras. The power shorted out when the voltage regulator made contact with water (fixed that), the long parangs that I keep under the bed in case of an intruder (different from story from a few years ago) were soaked (dried them out so that the won’t rust), and some clothes that I had laying on the floor (my bachelor routine) soaked up a lot of water (they’re out on the line in the backyard drying).
This morning I continued to work on fixing the door handle and lock that my gardener and I had to destroy when I arrived back from Bali. Why? My wife forgot to bring the keys for the bedroom to the airport when I left Bali for Sumbawa (she’s the Keeper of the Keys – I don’t take responsibility for that one) so I had to break the door down to get in when I made it back home. I’ve been working on repairing the door for a week and am just about finished.
So the lesson about this? Don’t complain about little things – I could have no houses (as I did once during my youth when I was one of the student poor) - ; keep your tools around where you can get at them (my drill is in Bali); work slowly and don’t give in to the guy response of force it; make sure that your wife and you are on the same page; make several sets of keys; get hi-tech and have retina identification installed in your house.
Saturday, October 06, 2007
Leaving Bali and something from the News
This is my last day of being home in Bali; tomorrow I’ll be heading back to Sumbawa for another ten weeks. The two weeks were good. It was nice to have all of us together. Generally we almost never eat together, but because of Ramadan and with all of us fasting, we’ve been having two meals a day together which has been great, even if most of us are asleep for breakfast.
It’s evening, everyone has opened the fast, and the children are running up and down the streets yelling and screaming and tormenting each other as small children do. Dozens of small boats are out fishing, their lamps lighting up the horizon.
I was able to finish a lot of my work on the third floor – replaced everything that was rusted and fixed a few broken appliances. I even did a little work on the second floor – changed the door handles on one of the bedrooms and put a clothes hanger in the second floor bathroom. I finished all my lesson plans for the next term and loaded them on the school website. I had a few emails from old students from Pakistan and Sumbawa that I answered along with a few personal ones. I put up a facebook site (which I won’t be able to update until I get back to Bali in December as social networking sites are blocked at our school. I took a look at my eldest daughter’s school textbooks and found them challenging enough. I spent a lot of private time with her talking about how life can be expensive and the need for budgeting money. The other kids spent all of their time with their friends as they see me everyday in Sumbawa.
I was able to see my old friend a number of times, but didn’t get to visit other folks because fasting puts a lot of stress on my body when I’m in Bali. I’ll do that in December. I had a lot of time to check out what other international teachers are doing with their students in terms of technology. I was also able to do some emailing and petition signing about the military crackdown in Burma.
And then there were the things that I didn’t get around to that I wanted to – stripping the paint off the third floor windows, fixing the kids’ bathroom on the first floor, sending more personal emails, getting my daughter a different IP, taking more personal photos, and doing some podcasts from Bali. That’s what retirement is for I guess. After an intense ten weeks, I spend a week just keying down and then get around to doing some work.
Tomorrow is a day of moving again – moving from one reality to another. I’m ready to just work on one reality and maybe that is what retirement is.
A few clips from the news:
People who are conscientious and prone to "doing the right thing" are less likely to develop Alzheimer's disease as they age
The Jakarta administration has allocated about US$219 million for the installment ceremony and other facilities for the governor-elect and the deputy governor
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Technology Stuff
Some cool tech stuff today that I’ve started using.
1.SnapNDrag for Mac OS - lets you create an easy screen capture and just drag it to your desktop or wherever you want to put it.
2. Open Source Mac – a website not an app, but you can get some cool (like SnapNDrag above) and free apps for your Mac here.
3. iGoogle – I’ve just discovered the iGoogle homepage and all the things that you can do with it. I customized mine in about 15 minutes with half a dozen technology feeds (both Mac and Windows), a variety of baseball feeds, a half dozen different news feeds, This Day in History, clocks showing times around the world, bookmarks, Einstein quotes, a google map, and a number of other cool things. My iGoogle page is one of the first things that I bring up when I go on line now. How will my students respond to it? I’m not sure, but I’m gong to find out when we get back to class.
4. MyYahoo – same thing as above except that I like the layout more. Google does have a few more gadgets to add to your page than Yahoo does. I keep both open when surfing.
5. Bluetooth – Bluetooth came with my iMac but as I don’t have any other Bluetooth devices, I’ve never used it. My eldest daughter has a nifty little handphone that is Bluetooth enabled and we tried it out the other day. Cool. We quickly sent loads of photos and music back and forth. It was impressive. It almost makes me want to buy a new handphone.
6. A little Bluetooth device that plugs into your USB port that I found today at a local computer store. For 75,000 rupiah (about 8 dollars US), I just plugged it in, installed the software and had it up and running on my daughter’s laptop. Now she can easily transfer the photos that I send her to her handphone to show her friends.
7. Facebook. An old buddy is using Facebook to do a little log on where he is on his round the world trip following his retirement. I signed up and found two of my nieces on there. It’s fun and useful as well. I found all sorts of folks talking about Burma and was able to sign a lot of online petitions. This is one of the ways that folks can use the internet to support freedom fighters around the world.
8. RSS – I’m starting to get used to using RSS now to get feeds of things that I want to keep up with, and I think that I have gotten the hang of writing my own RSS code to update my cyberbali.com site.
With less than a week before I head back to Sumbawa for another 10 weeks, I’m regretting that I won’t be taking my iMac back with me. It’s just easier to leave it here so that I have a computer to use when I’m back for December break. I’ll just have to get used to using my Windows machine at home I guess.
Friday, September 28, 2007
The Junta Strikes Back
The military has decided to get really heavy handed in response to the rising protests. There are at least nine dead, and mostly likely many more. According to the headline in The Irrawaddy Rangoon is under siege. A quote from their lead story says: "Rangoon was covered with gunfire smoke on Thursday as security forces and armed military troops used an iron fist to disperse tens of thousands of demonstrators in the second day of the Burmese junta's crackdown on the largest democracy uprising in 20 years."
According to Mizzima News
troops from Central Burma are marching on Rangoon but it's not clear if they are coming to put down the protests or support them.
Here are some contacts if you are inclined to action:
GROUPS
AOTEAROA
New Zealand Burma Support Group,
14 Waitati Place, Mt Albert, Auckland. Tel: (64) 9828 4855
AUSTRALIA
Australia Burma Council, PO Box 2024, Queanbeyan NSW 2620.
Tel: (616) 297 7734
E-mail: azappia@spirit.com.au
CANADA
Canadian Friends of Burma,
145 Spruce Street, Suite 206, Ottawa, Ontario, K1R 6P1. Tel: (613) 237 8056 Fax: (613) 563 0017 E-mail: cfob@web.apc.org Web: http://www.cfob.org/
THAILAND
Burma Issues, PO Box 1076,
Silom Post Office, Bangkok 10504.
E-mail: durham@mozart.inet.co.th
Web: http://www.signposts.uts.edu.au/contacts/Burma/Media/491.html
UK
The Burma Campaign UK
Third Floor, Bickerton House
Bickerton Road
London, UK
N19 5JT7
Tel: (20) 7281 7377
Fax: (20) 7272 3559
Email: info@burmacampaign.org.uk
Website: www.burmacampaign.org.uk
US
Franklin Research and Development,
711 Atlantic Avenue, Boston, MA 02111.
Tel: (617) 423 6655 Fax: (617) 482 6179
E-mail: simon_billenness@cybercom.net
Human Rights Watch/Asia, 350 Fifth Avenue, 34th floor New York, NY 10118-3299 USA Tel: (1) 212 290-4700, Fax: (1) 212 736-1300 E-mail: hrwnyc@hrw.org Web: http://www.hrw.org/asia/index.php
Free Burma Coalition website (with links to other Free Burma websites) http://www.freeburmacoalition.org
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Randomness
Random is a phrase that my students use all the time, especially the middle school students. More than a few times my homeroom will say to me “that was random” in response to some remark that intrudes upon my discussions of world economics or the wonders of algebra. “Random” is actually one of those remarks that they use that I actually like (unlike “sweet”) and use myself occasionally when one of the little darlings goes off on some tangent. So here are some random thoughts for the day.
Why is it that so many expat websites about Thailand use really garish colors on their sites? I’m thinking particularly of the ones with the black backgrounds and the electric blue (and unreadable) links and bright yellow fonts. Does it have something to do with them spending too much time in the bars of Soi Cowboy or Nana or Patpong?
If you live on the sea with a nice sea breeze constantly cooling you, you should put lots of paper down on the tiles if you’re outside on the balcony spray painting or rust proofing some fittings for your doors or windows (I didn’t and I have lots of outlines now on my balcony tiles of metal fittings.
Why is it that you can go just about anywhere in Southeast Asia and hear expats whine about the same things – the way we’re treated by locals, getting cheated by a girl/boyfriend/ wife or significant other, being made to feel unwelcome by the government, driving practices, and relatives? Are we the same? Are they the same?
Why is it that expats who have no understanding of and no interest in Islam move to countries that are predominately Muslim and then complain about it (almost always secretly) incessantly? I have a number of issues about the interpretation of the Qu’ran and the practices that are justified by referring to the Qu’ran, but I always make them publically.
Why don’t they sell Gouda cheese in Singaraja?
Why is it that so many expat websites about Thailand use really garish colors on their sites? I’m thinking particularly of the ones with the black backgrounds and the electric blue (and unreadable) links and bright yellow fonts. Does it have something to do with them spending too much time in the bars of Soi Cowboy or Nana or Patpong?
If you live on the sea with a nice sea breeze constantly cooling you, you should put lots of paper down on the tiles if you’re outside on the balcony spray painting or rust proofing some fittings for your doors or windows (I didn’t and I have lots of outlines now on my balcony tiles of metal fittings.
Why is it that you can go just about anywhere in Southeast Asia and hear expats whine about the same things – the way we’re treated by locals, getting cheated by a girl/boyfriend/ wife or significant other, being made to feel unwelcome by the government, driving practices, and relatives? Are we the same? Are they the same?
Why is it that expats who have no understanding of and no interest in Islam move to countries that are predominately Muslim and then complain about it (almost always secretly) incessantly? I have a number of issues about the interpretation of the Qu’ran and the practices that are justified by referring to the Qu’ran, but I always make them publically.
Why don’t they sell Gouda cheese in Singaraja?
Beats, Bali, and Hallucinations
Another day of fasting. Went out today to buy some thingies for the windows because the original ones are rusted. It’s hotter here in Singaraja than it is in Sumbawa, and small as it is, Singaraja is still a city with noise and pollution. So I felt hotter than usual. I’m writing this as the sun prepares to disappear and I wait to open the fast and have dinner with the family, most of whom I haven’t seen today. Right, the time now. It’s that time in the fast when the mind and body begin to feel like they are in the midst of an lsd trip. Reality does get bent some – not totally distorted, but twisted just a bit, and the response time is slowed down – well enough that I don’t like having long conversations with people because I’m never quite sure what they’re saying.
I’d be sitting out on the balcony right now having my sundown scotch if it wasn’t Ramadan but instead I’m watching the sun through the window as it descends while I type this. I just finished reading an interesting piece on Kerouac and On the Road as this is the 50th anniversary of its publication. The piece is well written, and I take pleasure in reading it; it’s a sensuous pleasure as physical as if I could touch the text, smell the ink, feel the weight of the magazine in my hands, but I’m online and can’t, but I do nonetheless, and I wonder if it’s like the people that feel limbs that have been amputated. What will the sensuousness of reading exist as for a future generation that doesn’t have books or magazines?
Robert is coming over this evening for a few drinks after the fast is over. Putu will be here too although he rarely drinks. I’ll have some cigarettes tonight as well to celebrate On the Road.
I just took a look at the Kerouac piece again and notice something moving on the page. Hmm, a hallucination? No, the New Yorker has an animated cartoon. I take a look at the page again. I love the New Yorker.
I’d be sitting out on the balcony right now having my sundown scotch if it wasn’t Ramadan but instead I’m watching the sun through the window as it descends while I type this. I just finished reading an interesting piece on Kerouac and On the Road as this is the 50th anniversary of its publication. The piece is well written, and I take pleasure in reading it; it’s a sensuous pleasure as physical as if I could touch the text, smell the ink, feel the weight of the magazine in my hands, but I’m online and can’t, but I do nonetheless, and I wonder if it’s like the people that feel limbs that have been amputated. What will the sensuousness of reading exist as for a future generation that doesn’t have books or magazines?
Robert is coming over this evening for a few drinks after the fast is over. Putu will be here too although he rarely drinks. I’ll have some cigarettes tonight as well to celebrate On the Road.
I just took a look at the Kerouac piece again and notice something moving on the page. Hmm, a hallucination? No, the New Yorker has an animated cartoon. I take a look at the page again. I love the New Yorker.
Monday, September 24, 2007
retirement- revised
The issue of what someone needs to retire on and how much that might cost is always a topic of discussion on expat forums. So what is my ideal of the essentials?
Books (this is about one book per month) 180,000
Internet ( I’m estimating this, I hope it’s less) 300,000
Website Server 144,000
Indovision (satellite tv so I can watch baseball) 300,000
Tech Stuff (software, hardware, ink, etc.) 250,000
Car registration (due yearly, saved monthly) 120,000
Motorbike registration (same) 19,000
Motorbike 2 registration (same as car) 19,000
School fees (for the 4 kids) 400,000
Visa (my retirement visa) 500,000
Clothes (for the kids) 500,000
Phone (my phone that I use for the internet) 120,000
Medical (whole family) 900,000
Insurance (me) 1,000,000
All this totals to 4,932,000 per month. It’s not exactly living like a hermit, but it’s what I see as living a fairly conservative lifestyle. My 7th/8th grade Social Studies class is just finishing a unit about economics and creating a budget was one of their assignments. They found my budget fairly barebones.
I had a comment from Brandon of The Java Jive blog about a few of the figures in my retirement budget and, while meaning to get an answer out, I’ve gotten bogged down in the quarterly migration from Sumbawa to Bali. So here’s my clarification about the above.
Brandon noted that the budget for books seemed rather slim – he’s a big reader and according to my relatives so I am. While living in Sumbawa and teaching and tending to the kids and animals and doing house repairs, I tend to only read for about 15 minutes before bed so finishing a book takes forever. I know that I’m going to be reading a lot more when I’m retired, but I spend several hours a day sorting through the various feeds from wire services, newspapers, journals, websites, and blogs and all of that is free. During the early days of the web I used a little slogan at the end of my emails that read, “Information wants to be free” (it wasn’t my creation, I grabbed it from a number of people that were using it as well) and I’m still of the opinion that the real revolutionary function of the internet is to provide free information so that the playing field is somewhat leveled from what is was in the past. Well…
Travel. I was asked about this as well. I’m not planning on doing much travel other than some local travel around the island. I’ve never been a very good tourist. I know people who can (or believe they can) charactize an island or country after a few days or weeks. I can’t do that and if I can’t get at what life is life on a daily basis for people, travel is only marginally interesting. But I am interested in spending time in various parts of the island just for information purposes.
Food. Ah, we do need to eat, and anyone who lives with an Indonesian knows that a large part of their time is spent either discussing food, preparing it, or consuming it. Food falls under my wife’s budget that isn’t included here. I also don’t have electricity costs or water or land taxes down in my budget because my wife deals with those. She gets 11 million a month to pay for all of that that includes the kids jajan requests and all the miscellaneous stuff that I don’t want to deal with.
So we have a total budget that really equals about 16 million a month. This is a fairly conservative budget for an expat. Getting down to local realities, this is probably about 8 times what our neighbors have to spend (if not more). This is something that I regularly remind the kids of – we’re fairly lucky in that we have some money. Oh yeah, zakat isn’t included here – that comes out of my slush fund.
Books (this is about one book per month) 180,000
Internet ( I’m estimating this, I hope it’s less) 300,000
Website Server 144,000
Indovision (satellite tv so I can watch baseball) 300,000
Tech Stuff (software, hardware, ink, etc.) 250,000
Car registration (due yearly, saved monthly) 120,000
Motorbike registration (same) 19,000
Motorbike 2 registration (same as car) 19,000
School fees (for the 4 kids) 400,000
Visa (my retirement visa) 500,000
Clothes (for the kids) 500,000
Phone (my phone that I use for the internet) 120,000
Medical (whole family) 900,000
Insurance (me) 1,000,000
All this totals to 4,932,000 per month. It’s not exactly living like a hermit, but it’s what I see as living a fairly conservative lifestyle. My 7th/8th grade Social Studies class is just finishing a unit about economics and creating a budget was one of their assignments. They found my budget fairly barebones.
I had a comment from Brandon of The Java Jive blog about a few of the figures in my retirement budget and, while meaning to get an answer out, I’ve gotten bogged down in the quarterly migration from Sumbawa to Bali. So here’s my clarification about the above.
Brandon noted that the budget for books seemed rather slim – he’s a big reader and according to my relatives so I am. While living in Sumbawa and teaching and tending to the kids and animals and doing house repairs, I tend to only read for about 15 minutes before bed so finishing a book takes forever. I know that I’m going to be reading a lot more when I’m retired, but I spend several hours a day sorting through the various feeds from wire services, newspapers, journals, websites, and blogs and all of that is free. During the early days of the web I used a little slogan at the end of my emails that read, “Information wants to be free” (it wasn’t my creation, I grabbed it from a number of people that were using it as well) and I’m still of the opinion that the real revolutionary function of the internet is to provide free information so that the playing field is somewhat leveled from what is was in the past. Well…
Travel. I was asked about this as well. I’m not planning on doing much travel other than some local travel around the island. I’ve never been a very good tourist. I know people who can (or believe they can) charactize an island or country after a few days or weeks. I can’t do that and if I can’t get at what life is life on a daily basis for people, travel is only marginally interesting. But I am interested in spending time in various parts of the island just for information purposes.
Food. Ah, we do need to eat, and anyone who lives with an Indonesian knows that a large part of their time is spent either discussing food, preparing it, or consuming it. Food falls under my wife’s budget that isn’t included here. I also don’t have electricity costs or water or land taxes down in my budget because my wife deals with those. She gets 11 million a month to pay for all of that that includes the kids jajan requests and all the miscellaneous stuff that I don’t want to deal with.
So we have a total budget that really equals about 16 million a month. This is a fairly conservative budget for an expat. Getting down to local realities, this is probably about 8 times what our neighbors have to spend (if not more). This is something that I regularly remind the kids of – we’re fairly lucky in that we have some money. Oh yeah, zakat isn’t included here – that comes out of my slush fund.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Back in Bali - Stage 2
Right. Back in Bali once again after the usual long trip except this time it was made longer and more difficult by the fact that all of us except our youngest, Meredith, were fasting. The trip was actually on the fast side as it took us 15 ½ hours to make it door to door from Sumbawa to Bali. My failing eyesight in my right eye makes driving at night a problem, but we made it through the usual mad traffic in Bali safely.
Mercedes was glad (to say the least) to see all of us – Rebecca even hugged Mercedes when we arrived which, considering how the two continually fight when they are together, was a nice touch. My friends, Robert and Putu, showed up to welcome us and Robert gave me a nice bottle of scotch as a welcome home present.
No one got to sleep before 12 and everyone was up at 3 to eat before another day of fasting. Su woke up at six to go to the market which left me alone for most of the day. I spent that time unpacking all the stuff that I brought with me as part of this phase for the big move next June when I quit working.
I began setting up my file cabinet to make it functional again after four plus years of serving as a storage device for miscellaneous junk. Then I spent hours on the computer setting up bookmarks on my iMac which I brought with me and which will stay here – I’ll use my windows machine in Sumbawa for the remainder of my time there.
Mercedes came up and spent a few hours just chatting about her life and helping me unpack – as well as helping herself to some of my office supplies. It was good to spend some time with her after the 10 weeks apart.
I brought a load of work with me which I’ll get to in a few days; right now I’m doing my retirement stuff which gives me a feeling that I’ll get there eventually. I have to write a report for the Board on primary computer use.
I uploaded the first of my attempts at doing digital 3d art with Bryce. I’ve introduced this to my students in 3rd – 8th grade and they love it. But I want to get a little beyond just having them make nice landscapes. I printed out the manual, and I’m going to work on developing my skills with this program. I’m also going to clean up the podcast page on cyberbali and do a few podcasts from here. The kids enjoy doing the podcasts, and they’re great to use with the students because they develop skills in a variety of areas: they had to write out scripts to use (no stream of consciousness stuff), sort through a mass of sound tracks to use as background music (this was optional – the younger guys had some trouble with that so we skipped it for them), then they had to record their program and edit it so that it sounds smooth when we broadcast it on Friday mornings before assemblies. If I was going to be around for a few more years, I’d do a lot more work with the podcasting, but as it is, we’ll do some basics for now.
Unfortunatley, the company that owns the school has blocked us uploading any multimedia files so we can’t put the podcasts online anymore. I’m going to do that from here if I can find all the work that the kids did.
I received some new photos of my cute granddaughter today which the family loves seeing. I have to print them out for all the kids to put in their rooms.
We opened the fast this evening with all of the family having dinner together which is something that we rarely do – generally everyone eats when they’re hungry so it was really enjoyable to have dinner together.
And that ends the first day back home.
(The photo is one of the papaya trees that I cut down last week. I couldn’t upload the photo to the blog because of the new restrictions on uploading graphics)
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Hermits, Thoreau, Retirement and the Essentials of Life
Additionally, he notes that Thoreau followed Socrates in seeing how many things he could live without so that he would not become a slave to working in order to purchase things which were really luxuries and comforts that had become to be seen as necessities.
So the point of all this - it’s related to a degree to my planned retirement. I’ve been working on paring my life down to what I see as essentials for me. The idea is to spend time with my family, friends, and myself to rediscover who I am and be available for my children before they are grown and gone.
The issue of what someone needs to retire on and how much that might cost is always a topic of discussion on expat forums. So what is my ideal of the essentials?
Books (this is about one book per month) 180,000
Internet ( I’m estimating this, I hope it’s less) 300,000
Website Server 144,000
Indovision (satellite tv so I can watch baseball) 300,000
Tech Stuff (software, hardware, ink, etc.) 250,000
Car registration (due yearly, saved monthly) 120,000
Motorbike registration (same) 19,000
Motorbike 2 registration (same as car) 19,000
School fees (for the 4 kids) 400,000
Visa (my retirement visa) 500,000
Clothes (for the kids) 500,000
Phone (my phone that I use for the internet) 120,000
Medical (whole family) 900,000
Insurance (me) 1,000,000
All this totals to 4,932,000 per month. It’s not exactly living like a hermit, but it’s what I see as living a fairly conservative lifestyle. My 7th/8th grade Social Studies class are just finishing a unit about economics and creating a budget was one of their assignments. They found my budget fairly barebones. More on budgeting for expats later.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
House repairs and things to do after retiremen
1. Cook breakfast for the kids
2. Drive kids to school
3. Pick kids up from school.
4. Correspondence with family and friends
5. Reading online newspapers
6. General web surfing to see what is new on the internet.
7. Developing the cyberbali site to have more lessons that teachers can use with quick to use directions on how to use them.
8. Contributing to the forums that I belong to – expat forums, education forums, 3d forums.
9. Exercising daily – walking, swimming, lifting weights.
10. Cleaning the house.
11. Writing my blog daily.
12. Finishing the novel that I started 20 years ago.
13. Finishing the book on Islam and Hinduism that I started 10 years ago.
14.
15. Doing house repairs.
16. visiting friends.
17. Learning how to use 3D graphics programs.
18. Learning Balinese.
19. Learning Arabic.
20. Learning how to program in Java and setting up some easy lessons online for teachers.
21. Podcasting.
22. Go to
23. Make a series of videos about
24. Take a biology class online.
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